Editor's ChoiceCategories Credit Type Issuers Blog

Interview With An Insider, Part 1

02/04/2009

I recently came across a credit card industry insider who has agreed to share some of his experiences on the condition of anonymity.

Here is the first of a three part interview:

JSteele: First, could you please tell me a little about your experience?

Insider: Sure – I worked for one of the world’s largest credit card issuers for over ten years in several departments – including Customer Service. Most recently, I have been working for a third party credit card processor (handling the customer service, fraud/security, collection calls for clients).

I have heard more than my fair share of Customer Service calls and sat in on discussions of both marketing and account pricing.

JSteele: What is the credit card industry’s perspective on people who always pay their balance due in full, on time, and never pay interest? Are these your best customers, or are they considered to be “deadbeats”?

Insider: First off, the credit card business, like any other business, has as employees good hard-working decent people who are just trying to do their jobs and make money for their business. It also has some employees who are shady underhanded people. Customers also come in both varieties. 🙂

A customer who never carries a balance, uses their card either for only a few small transactions, or charges a lot in each month and then pays in full (a “transactor”) is definitely not the preferred customer.

This type of customer is still making money for their merchant acquirer – a merchant acquirer is still getting their 4%-6% of the transaction when the customer uses their card, but the big money (particularly interest) isn’t hitting this account, so they are not your most valued customer. For a bank that doesn’t own their own merchant acquirer, this type of customer does not generate any profit at all.

Your “best” customer is a “revolver” (with a revolving balance at any given moment) someone who charges right up to their limit, pays the minimum each month and sometimes goes overlimit. This person would be making money for the industry with processing fees per transaction, interest rates, overlimit charges, late fees, etc.

All accounts are valued in that they are counted in the “we have xx cardholders” and we have xx in outstandings” (money due to us). In all honesty, I never heard any customer referred to as a “deadbeat” but we did have to chuckle when we would receive correspondence from someone complaining about a problem and they’d state they’d been a customer for xx years, never paid late, always paid in full – to us that wasn’t the way to show yourself as valuable to us.

JSteele: You mentioned that you have seen practices that “make you want to shower”, have you ever seen companies mark payment as received after the due date, when it was received on or before the due date? Can you share some other “interesting” practices?

Insider: Where I have worked, I never saw payments held. That is a major violation of regulations and I would imagine that anyone caught doing that would be immediately dismissed. There was the occasional error of a machine shredding a check to the point where we couldn’t determine who it was from, the amount, or the account number and in that case, a payment would never hit the account, but the checking account would also not be debited. But it would be very difficult for this cardholder to get Customer Service to accept that they mailed in payment and it disappeared. They would usually be charged the late fee, and of course, if the payment wasn’t credited, they could be hit with overlimit fees as well (depending on their situation).

I personally had a credit card with another institution where the statement would arrive at my house with 5 days for payment to be received. That’s just absurd! If I opened the envelope, immediately wrote out the check and handed it right back to the mail carrier to deliver to them, it would still be late!

The “interesting” practices I’ve seen are for the most part all things that people are aware of – double cycle billing, universal default, foreign transaction fees, payment allocation to lower APRs first – things that when they were being proposed, I thought, “no one is going to accept that – that’s just stealing from customers” but cardholders accepted these fees and didn’t cancel their cards – they kept charging and kept paying. Frankly, that amazed me. To this day I can’t understand why people didn’t just “opt out” and close out their account and pay it off. If people opted out from the first bank that did this, no one else would have. But the first bank made a fortune doing it, so everyone else jumped on board.

During a foreign transaction fee meeting I remember one attendee saying, “well if they can afford to go to Europe, they can afford to pay $2 per transaction”.

Things I have seen that just didn’t make sense were things like refusing to talk with a cardholder about their account because they weren’t the “primary cardholder” – even though the caller would be held responsible for any charges on the card. Also the routine loss of faxes led me to believe that anything faxed in would just get thrown out – not maliciously, just because there was so much paper by the machine and it got all jumbled up and there was no way to make sense out of it.

Read Part Two

Read Part Three

Lost In Debt Part 2

02/03/2009

This is a continuation of yesterday’s answer to a reader’s question. If you missed part 1 you can read it here.

After yesterday’s post Lost in Debt wrote back in (thank you!) with some more information.

awesome information.

the questions to the lawyer part really open my mind to things that i wasn’t thinking about, especially the income tax aspect. and definitely the student loan part.

just a couple clarifications (since i wasn’t clear in my story) the 10k that i was going to allocate to clearing debts was only a portion of my current savings that i was planning on bringing with me. its almost about 20k. i was planning for about 1700/month for costing of living (10 months) & then 3k for lawyer/bankruptcy fund.

i am fortunate to still be close with people back in the states, so i have an older project vehicle that has been sitting with an uncle that just needs a few things to be running and people who would take me in for a little while (while i get readjusted to stateside living).

the co-signer part was an absolute eye-opener. and now for it is an absolute last resort.

also was just wondering if it made a difference in which state i filed bankruptcy. because the majority of my dead was accumulated while i was living in San Francisco, but when i am planning to relocate to seattle because that is my original home town.

Again thank you very much for the information and i am definitely looking forward to the next installment.

Lost in Debt.

Thanks for the added information Lost in Debt! Let’s take a look at the steps you will want to take if you choose to pay your debt back.

Paying Back Old Debt:

Since you have about $24,000 worth of debt, and around $10,000 to pay on it, it does make you an excellent candidate for debt negotiation.

First Steps:

The first thing you will want to do (even before you move back to the states) is to pull all three of your credit reports.

Specifically you are looking for judgments. If you debt is several years old then it is definitely possible that you have a couple of judgements against you.

If you do have judgments listed on your credit report you can either stop them with Bankruptcy, or pay them back as fast as possible before you get a job in the United States.

If you don’t deal with those judgments right off, then your wages will be garnished once you get a job. I’ve had it happen, and it’s not only embarrassing, but horribly inconvenient if you were counting on the money.

So, pull those reports and check it out because that will be your first step.

You can access your credit reports on line by visiting Annual Credit Report.com

Next, you will want to use your credit report to make a list of everyone that is still reporting the old debt on your credit reports.

Find A Credit Counselor:

Since your debt is so old, it also makes you a prime candidate to settle for less than you owe! A qualified credit counselor can work wonders. They can negotiate debt settlements as low as 60% of your total debt or lower.

Not all credit counselors are created equal though, so choose carefully. We have a couple of articles that might help you with the process:

  • How to Tell if a Credit Counseling Service is Legit
  • Due Diligence When Choosing a Consumer Credit Counselling Service
  • A credit counselor will take over all the debt negotiations for you. You will simply give them the money that you have to pay on your debt, and continue to write them one check each month until your dbt is paid off. If collectors contact you, you can give them the name and number of your credit counselor, and they will deal with them from that point on.

    There are situations where credit counseling can hurt your credit score, but your situation really isn’t one of them. For one thing, you can give them a lump sum to negotiate with immediately, and two, your debt is old enough that they should be able to negotiate settlements pretty easily. If you want to pay your debt back, it really is the best option.

    Questions to ask a credit counselor:

    Your Credit Score:

    Paying back your debt is always going to look better on your credit report than defaulting on your debt. You can expect your credit score to go up if you pay back your debts, and it will make a difference to future lenders that your accounts show paid in full.

    I wish I could tell you specifically how much of a boost your credit score will get, but I can’t. The FICO system is notoriously complex, and there really is no way to predict an exact number. That might be a question that your credit counselor can answer once they see each of your accounts.

    If you do choose to repay your debt this way, my advice would be to go ahead and get at least one secured credit card right away, and charge a very small amount on it each month.

    That regularly paid new account, coupled with the old debt repayments should boost your credit score pretty quickly.

    As far as your credit score being over 700, it will still take two to three years.

    Final Considerations:

    The best way to compare your options is to ask yourself these question:

    If you choose to repay your debts this way, you will still want to challenge some of the older bad accounts on your credit report. Repaying your debt, plus a new account in good standing, plus removing anything you can off of your credit reports will give you the fastest method of recovering your credit score.

    As far as your question about which state you need to file bankruptcy in – I would search the internet, and email a lawyer in each state asking them. That will give you the best answer since each state’s laws are different.

    Thanks again for your question. If there are any parts of these answers that you would like to see clarified, or discuss more, please feel free to leave a comment.

    Thanks!

    Have a question for us? Leave a comment below!

    Lost In Debt Part 1

    02/02/2009

    What should you do if you’ve defaulted on your loans? Declare bankruptcy, or pay them back?

    One of our readers, Lost In Debt, sent this question in:

    So here is my situation (thanks in advance for reading and hopefully offering me any kind of guidance).

    i am currently contemplating filing bankruptcy. the position i am in right now is that back in 2007 i picked up everything (literally) and moved to the Philippines for family reasons.

    At that time the company i worked for was in the process on liquidating assets and I was one of them (was given a severance).

    So I decided that it was a good time for me to be with my family (being that they needed me) i decided to liquidate all my assets as much as i could, (alot of people will hate me for this) but i pulled out as much cash from almost everywhere i could (credit, bank, etc) and the only thing i had left behind was my almost 2 year old car which i was just going to let them repossess (but a friend took over payments for 6 months and then it finally got taken away).

    So that is the back story (and i do apologize for this being so long) and here is the current situation.

  • almost 18k worth of credit card debt / misc. (no payments or contact with creditors since AUG 2007)
  • repo CAR balance (worth 3k; friend will split if need be)
  • 3k student loan (but i am going to pay it off before filing, because it wont come off either way)
  • Right now i am considering relocating back to the states (home sick to be honest).

    I do have the means to pay about 10k or so of the outstanding debt, but that would cut into my relocation fund. because since being out in the Philippines I have been able to save more since i have left all my debt (i know i know, that it was not the right thing to do).

    Basically I have enough funds for me to be able to come back to the states and cover cost of living for about 10 months (which includes a rent, food, etc). and that is if I came back and didn’t find work for 10 months. if i were to repay a large chunk of debt, I might end up in the same place again but with no fall back this time around.

    Now here is my dilemma, I don’t know whether to pay of the existing debt (which has all been sent to collection agencies and I am no longer dealing with the main creditor) or to file for bankruptcy.

    I cant really find much information about how my credit will look if I paid off the debt and then how hard it would be to re-establish my footing and get my credit score somewhere north of 700 and also start getting credit again.

    I have acclimated myself to not using credit (and in my honest opinion I like it much better, but you never know).

    Also I do have people that have offered to let me lean on them in the case I do file bankruptcy and would be more than willing to co-sign their lives away so to speak (an option, but likely a last option).

    How will that help my credit score move if I had someone that has amazing credit co-sign with me on say a car loan or something smaller like the sort (don’t really know how that would work).

    So after all that jibberish (again i do apologize), I can sum everything up into 3 points:

    1. Pay off debt… How will Credit Look? How will i be affected in terms of getting credit(i.e. unsecured cards / loans / etc)?

    2. File bankruptcy…. Save the savings… get say $500 secured card and start for dead scratch …. How will a Co-Signer help with move my credit score & getting Credit (i.e. car loan) and should i be the primary or should they be the primary?

    3. Stay where i am and just come back for a visit and hope i dont get detained when flying back out to the Philippines.

    If you made it all the way to here. I do greatly appreciate any feedback that you might have more me. and I do apologize for it being so long.

    Thanks and looking forward to your response.

    Lost in Debt.

    Thanks for your question Lost in Debt. And thanks also for being so specific about your situation. I’m answering this one instead of Mr. Credit Card because I haven been through bankruptcy – I hope you don’t mind.

    I am going to break this answer up into two parts so that we can give both situations (Bankruptcy vs. Debt Repayment) the attention they deserve. Today we’ll take a look at what will happen if you declare bankruptcy, and tomorrow we’ll cover what you need to do to repay your debt and get a fresh start.

    I’d also like to welcome any readers to comment: those who’ve been through bankruptcy and those who haven’t. The more people than can give you the benefit of their experience, the easier it will be to make an informed decision. Help us out guys!

    Bankruptcy As An Option:

    Here’s the basics of your situation:

    You have around $24,000 worth of debt. If you take all the money that you can pull together right now, you have about $10,000 to pay on the debt.

    Because you have no real assets (house, car, etc.) you are an excellent candidate for Chapter 7 bankruptcy as long as your income isn’t too high.

    The cost of chapter 7 bankruptcy is around $1,000 depending on your lawyer (possibly a couple of hundred dollars more). You will also still have to pay off your $3,000 in student loans.

    Total cost of declaring bankruptcy / student loans: $4,000.
    Money you have left to begin a new life: $6,000

    What happens to your credit if you file bankruptcy?

    Actually, my bankruptcy hurt my credit less than all of the negative accounts did. After bankruptcy my credit score was 590. Before bankruptcy it was around 630. That was a 40 point drop for me.

    Now, credit scores are difficult to compute and predict (FICO does that on purpose) so your credit score may be affected differently. In my case, it was 40 points. I was able to recover that 40 points in about a year.

    Anyone else out there who knows their credit score before and after bankruptcy, please let us know. I can only speak from my own experience.

    Starting Over After Bankruptcy:

    If you declare Chapter 7 Bankruptcy your bankruptcy will usually be discharged within 4 to 6 months. (Possibly a little sooner depending on your lawyer and your state’s laws.)

    Once your bankruptcy is discharged:

    Apply for 2 or 3 secured credit cards. A $500 balance on each is a great place to start, just do them one at a time if you can’t do all three right away.. Make sure you get all three though, because you need several positive accounts being reported each month to the credit bureaus.

    Charge no more than $50 a month on your credit cards – but do charge a little bit each month. Otherwise you have no record of payment.

    Also, avoid applying for “bad credit” unsecured credit cards. The terms are rotten, and you never get your money back. A secured credit card will serve the same function, and instead of paying the deposit in fees, you get it back when you upgrade your credit card account.

    Make sure that all three secured credit cards report to all three credit bureaus (TransUnion, Equifax, and Experian). Otherwise they aren’t doing you any good.

    Your next step will be to pull your credit reports, several months in a row and double check that all the accounts you included in your bankruptcy show up as actually being included in your bankruptcy. Don’t let any negatives slip through once the debt is included. That really is essential to raising your score.

    We have instructions on how to challenge items on your credit report here:

  • How to successfully dispute an item on your credit report
  • If you keep the balances on your credit cards to less than 15% of your available credit, you clean up your credit reports, and you make all of your future payments on time you can expect your credit score to go up easily.

    How long will it take to get your credit score over 700?

    Well it depends on what your credit score is after bankruptcy, but Most people can recover their credit in a minimum of three to five years. The bankruptcy will not fall of your credit report for ten years. After seven years, it will not matter as much to lenders.

    The hard truth about bankruptcy:

    With a bankruptcy on your credit report some lenders will not lend money to you for any reason, no matter what your credit score is. If that happens, you just move on and find a lender that will work with you.

    The surprising truth about bankruptcy:

    You can get car loans and home loans (at terrible interest rates) immediately after bankruptcy. The higher your credit score is, the better the interest rates will be. You can always consider refinancing as your credit score goes up.

    The important thing to realize is that you can still get loans, even in the current economy with a bankruptcy on your record. It won’t be easy, but it is certainly possible. Especially when you have a reasonable down payment.

    Co-Signers and Bankruptcy:

    The best advice I can give you is to avoid getting a co-signer on anything after bankruptcy. Once lenders see that you have a ready co-signer you will never be able to get a loan without one until the bankruptcy is off your credit reports.

    Instead, I suggest getting those secured credit cards, ing a cheap used car that you don’t have to make payments on, and avoid borrowing money for a couple of years. That will give your credit score enough time to recover enough that you should be able to get a loan without a co-signer.

    Additional considerations:

    Remember that moving back to the states is going to involve considerable expense. Since your credit is poor (from the defaulted debt) you are going to have to have hefty deposits on a car and apartment. You will also need money to live off of as you look for a job. Make sure you have all the details of starting your new life accounted for before you make a decision on debt repayment.

    As a last consideration, make sure that you do speak with a lawyer. Sit down with one who offers a free consultation, and explain your situation. A lawyer working in your new state is going to be the only person who can explain the bankruptcy laws in that state, and help you make your final decision.

    Questions to ask your lawyer:

    Tomorrow we will cover all the details you need to know if you want to repay your debt, how it affects your credit, and the steps you can take to do that.

    Thanks again for your question!

    Have a question for us? Want to share your experience? Leave a comment below!

    Keep Reading:

    More Than Enough By Dave Ramsey Book Review Part 3

    02/01/2009

    morethanenough2Every Sunday here at Ask Mr. Credit Card we review a personal finance book. This week we continue our review of “More Than Enough” by Dave Ramsey.

    If you missed the first two parts of the review, you can read them here:

    Chapter 5: Hope: Balm For The Soul

    You will never have more than enough unless you plug into one of the most powerful traits that we as humans can possess: hope.

    Hope is the powerful fuel that causes the engine of your life to develop all the horsepower it was designed to have. Values that bring vision and unity will always be put into motion when hope comes on the scene. Hope creates motion.

    I used to think “cute”, when someone mentioned the word hope. I made the mistake of thinking of hope as a sissy word with flowers and valentines around it. After years of watching folks get more than enough I have realized that hope is one of the most powerful things that can or cannot happen in someone’s life.

    Hope is steel covered in velvet. It can seem soft and cuddly, but hope is the core of what makes people become what God designed them to be. Hope, and it’s sister, Faith, always create action.

    Hope moves us forward when logic and energy are gone.

    Losing hope is the first and only stage of giving up. Once the hope is gone, there is little point in pursuing a particular point of action.

    It’s easy to lose hope in difficult situations. It’s easy to let yourself sit down, give up, and wait for someone, anyone else to handle your problems.

    Most of us have learned, at one point or another, that sometimes there just is no one else to hand our problems off to. That is when we must look inside of ourselves and either find a new reason to hope, or plot a different course of action where hope does exist.

    They can take everything, but they only way you lose your hope is you have to surrender it.

    Hope is an act of the will, it is a decision.

    Loss of hope from being gut punched one too many times can happen to any of us. What causes some people to be able to get up again while others can’t seem to find the energy?

    Someone once asked Paul Harvey, the radio commentator, to reveal the secret to his success. “I get up every time I fall down,” was Harvey’s answer.

    Vince Lombardi said, “It is not whether you get knocked down, it is whether you get up.”

    The folks who get up again and again and keep going until they get more than enough from life are the folks who do not accept failure as destiny.

    Instead they are always reminding themselves that failure is not an indicator of the future, but just a building block to get there.

    Dale Carnegie believed that when he said, “Develop success from failures. Discouragement and failure are two of the surest stepping stones to success.”

    If hope is an act of will rather than an emotion, then it stands to reason that we can find hope in any situation, no matter how ugly, if we simply choose to.

    In fact, I would say that many of the world’s most popular works of literature all rally around this theme: Finding hope in the midst of darkness. Whether it was Frodo and Sam in the darkness of Mordor, Edmond Dantès imprisoned in the Chateau d’if, or even David as he faced the overwhelming might of Goliath.

    There is nothing we enjoy more as humans than the triumph of hope over failure. And yet we look to our own lives, and see our battles as small. “Balancing a budget! Pah! That’s no triumph of hope, that’s no heroic act!”

    But what if it is? Having just enough hope to take that first, all important step is an act of heroism. And it will take you on a journey as far and as fantastic as that of the greatest fictional hero.

    The Real World

    Life gives us some events that lend us perspective. Every so often things happen that make a real pointed statement showing us what is real, and what is important.

    Those events, even if tragic, give us energy because our hope is made fresh when we have a clean measuring stick to use to measure our other problems against.

    This is another universal theme – we have all had this happen. When true tragedy befalls us or those we love, it puts all other problems into the back seat.

    That argument over dinner no longer has the same weight that it did once you find out a friend or a loved one is in the hospital.

    If you are losing hope in your financial situation, do a quick check up on your perspective. Is there anything that is leading you to blow things out of proportion? Are there any fears that you can face to put things right again in your heart?

    Chapter 6: Accountability: How To Get An “A” In Conduct

    Our lives are like gardens. If fertilized with continued learning, watered with spiritual renewal, pruned from bad influence, and weeded of bad habits our lives will be beautiful.

    If left unattended, the bugs of bad influence and the weeds of bad habits will take over and ruin our lives.

    Ok, I’ll admit this speech reminded me a little of Dolores Umbridge, the evil headmistress of Hogwarts…

    (Gratuitous Harry Potter clip below)


    Frightening connotations aside, this is good advice. As is Ramsey’s advice to find a gardener:

    Clifford G. Baird says we need gardeners in our lives. The gardeners will be positive influences, hold us accountable for our behavior, and insist that we make a habit of what is good for us. Accountability and support are the tools of the gardener.

    I can think of people in my own life that act as gardeners for me. They bring out the very best in me, and constantly encourage me to do more, better…best.

    Close friends and mentors that believe in you are irreplaceable because they help to build you up and encourage you to find your own strength. Do you have gardeners like that in your own life?

    When there are no gardeners:

    All too often we don’t have gardeners in our lives. Financial problems, marital problems, career problems, spiritual challenges, and health problems will attack each of us.

    No one makes it through life without challenges. Some of the challenges are so big we feel we will sink under their weight.

    When life ties you up and throws you in a pit you have to make choices. You have to decide what to do at the bottom.

    When some folks get smacked so hard they can’t breathe, they choose to sit and examine, and talk about those scars the rest of their lives.

    Clifford G. Baird says, “People wallow in mediocrity knowing what they should do.”

    We know in our minds that staying in the pit isn’t smart; but it is our pit, and it feels safe.

    Our very own pit is like sitting in a dirty diaper. We are sitting in a mess and it stinks; but it is warm and it is ours, so some folks choose to stay.

    Isn’t that the truth? If you’re in a financial pit, or any other sort of pit, take the time to sit down with yourself and go over your options. If you’re tired of being in that pit, how can you get out?

    Can you take on a second job? Work longer hours at your first job? Cut your budget and make extra payments on your revolving debt?

    Whatever you choice, the best place to begin is with a plan of action. Set your goals, write them down, take them to heart, and work to achieve them. It’s amazing that many of us allow our problems to get us down, when the solution isn’t that difficult – it just involves facing our fears and admitting that we are in that pit to begin with.

    That concludes this week’s review of “More Than Enough” by Dave Ramsey. If you want to read our future reviews you can grab our Free RSS feed so that you don’t miss them.

    Have a question? Read the book? Leave a comment below!

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    Amex To NY Times: Just Kidding!

    01/30/2009

    Yesterday, I dug into the outrageous practices of American Express’s “consumer profiling”. Today, Ron Lieber of the New York Times is on this story, and it gets even more bizarre.

    Amex to Customers: “Don’t Believe Anything We Say”

    According to Amex, “The letters were wrong to imply we were looking at specific merchants,” said Susan Korchak, a company spokeswoman. Perhaps Ms. Karchak needs to look up the definition of the word imply, which means to infer or state indirectly. What American Express did in it’s letter to Kevin Johnson was to say explicitly that they were looking at specific merchants. Let me quote Amex’s letter again

    “Other customers who have used their card at establishments where you recently shopped have a poor repayment history with American Express.”

    There is no inference or deduction that Amex is looking at where you shop, they said it outright in the clearest possible terms!

    Karchak goes on to explain that the main factor in determining credit worthiness “has always been and still is the overall level of debt, relative to the card member’s financial resources.” Now based on that statement, one could easily infer that they are using specific merchants you shop at to compose up to 50% of their decision making, just short of being a “main factor”.

    Will Amex Soon Feel The Wrath Of The Feds?

    Yesterday I speculated that Amex is risking a class action lawsuit or a federal investigation. Unknown to me at that time was that a Compucredit, a sub prime lender, was forced to pay a fine by the federal trade commission for lowering people’s availible credit rating on their shopping patterns. No wonder that the Amex spokesperson seemingly backed off their statement when pressed by the New York Times. They now say that they are no longer using “spending patterns” as a criteria for reducing credit.

    Fessing Up

    At least their spokesperson confessed to their other practices, such as restricting credit based on your profession and your mortgage company. Of course, there are no shortage of ways that this kind of analysis could produce false positives. For example, I obtained my last refinance through a mortgage broker. That company then sold my mortgage to another company. I had no controll over that transaction. What if it had been one of their blacklisted companies?

    Don’t even get me started on the blacklisted industries that are facing layoffs, of which credit card companies themselves should be at the top of the list!

    Conclusions

    The article concludes on pretty much the same note as my post. Don’t worry too hard about this. If Amex or some other company upsets you, there is no shortage of other companies that would be happy to earn your business. That said, it is all well and good if you are like me and do not carry a balance or use up most of your credit. If not, it could be inconvenient and or costly to have your credit limit lowered spontaneously.

    One More Word On Churning

    To follow up on my recent posts on churning here and here, I came across an interesting article over at the Frugal Travel Guy, who follows up on one of his reader’s churning efforts. Apparently, his reader is the type of person to frequently monitor their own credit scores from all three major companies. What is interesting is the before and after snapshots of their credit scores relative to their credit card churning effort:

    “Me before starting to churn: 758 Equifax, 742 Experian, 761 TransUnion
    Me after starting to churn: 741 Equifax, 751 Experian, 774 TransUnion

    Wife before starting to churn: 767 Equifax, 761 Experian, 782 TransUnion
    Wife after starting to churn: 772 Equifax, 747 Experian, 778 TransUnion”

    In four of the six instances, their credit scores went up following this person’s churning effort. In the two instances where their credit scores suffered, the losses were very small, only 17 points and 6 points. In neither case was it enough to really make a difference in qualifying for a home or auto loan.

    This actually makes sense. It is well known that a portion of your credit score is reflective of your credit utilization ratio. If these individuals had a high credit utilization prior to their churning effort, the additional credit apparently helped them rather than hurt them. This experience, corroberating my own, is starting to convert me to the merits of churning.

    To tie this all together, if the credit card companies find it morally ok to grant me credit based on where I shop, where I work, and who purchased my mortgage, I don’t think I am going to have an ethical problem exploiting their sign up bonuses.

    More Outrageous Credit Card Company Practices

    01/29/2009

    My hometown paper, the Denver Post, has an article detailing the new credit card practice that I call consumer profiling. You may remember a while back I posted an article about Kevin Johnson, the American Express Customer in Atlanta who was had his credit limit cut by American Express. He was told, in witting, that his credit was being cut because “Other customers who have used their card at establishments where you recently shopped have a poor repayment history with American Express.”

    The Denver Post article expands what we know about this practice. The author of the article, David Migoya, interviews several people in the credit card industry that offer new factors beyond your credit score that may be affecting how your credit card company treats you. For example, the neighborhood you live in is cited as a factor. The rationale appears to be that if you own a home in a neighborhood that is experiencing a higher than average foreclosure rate, than you are somehow a greater credit risk, regardless of your personal financial situation.

    For the life of me, I can’t see how this differs from the illegal and racist practice known as redlining. I suspect many credit card issuers are setting themselves up for class action lawsuits and/or government civil rights investigations.

    Another potential factor for limiting your credit includes a change in shopping patterns. Have you discovered a new discount store lately? Oh my god, you have changed your shopping pattern and this is an indication that you are now a greater credit risk!

    Finally, the article mentions that your type of employment is a factor that is now being considered. If you work in construction, that is considered to be a risky place to be right now. No credit for you! Of course the ultimate irony is that a huge number of job losses these days have been in banking and finance, the very same people who are judging you. I would not be shocked to find out that employment in that sector is somehow excluded as risky profession.

    What Did Kevin Johnson Do?

    It is nice to hear a followup from Kevin Johnson, the Atlanta entrepreneur who, via the Atlanta Journal and Constitution, broke this story originally. Mr. Johnson, ever the entrepreneur, has created a new web site, New Credit Rules to publicize these outrageous practices. In his latest post, he is naming names. Specifically, he has posted a list of stores that he has shopped at, called Beware, These Stores Could Harm Your Credit!

    Lest you think that he is shopping at some bizarre places that only someone about to declare bankruptcy would be (wherever that may be), take a look at part of his list:

    Amazon.com, Applebee’s, BP, Cheesecake Factory, Chick-Fil-A, Dave & Busters, ESPN Zone, Exxon Mobile, McDonald’s, Quizno’s, Red Robin, Ruby Tuesday, Satellite Radio XM Sirius, Spirit Airlines, Starbucks, United States Post Office, Walmart

    Wow, what a bunch of shady establishments! Frankly, I think I too have shopped at each of these places at some point the last few years.

    What Should You Do?

    Aside from being outraged, I wouldn’t worry too hard. Thankfully, the credit card industry is very competitive. If a bank doesn’t want to give credit to people like Keven Johnson and myself who have perfect payment histories, there are plenty of other banks out there for us to deal with. I certainly am not going to change my spending habits in the slightest on the theory that it will help me with my credit score.

    I would be more worried that it might potentially hurt my mortgage rates the next time I refinance. On the other hand, perhaps when it comes to your home loan, maybe it is legitimate to consider what the prices in your neighborhood are doing.

    Until then, I plan to keep up with Kevin’s plight. Today, President Obama signed the Ledbetter act, named after a woman who experienced discrimination, and later led the charge to pass a law against it. It is average consumers like Mrs. Ledbetter and Mr. Johnson who sometimes make the difference.

    Go Kevin!

    When Balance Transfers Go Bad!

    What happens when your credit card company changes the terms of your balance transfer agreement? A reader, Michael, sent this question in:

    I have a credit card with Chase that was a balance transfer for a “life of the loan” interest rate of 2.99% with a payment of 2% of the balance. They claim to have sent me a letter saying they were changing the agreement of that loan.

    The minimum payment would now be 5% of the balance which makes the payment out of my range. I had to agree to change the terms of my loan now to 7.9 % interest until 2011 now to receive that 2% payment on the balance.

    This is really criminal. I was wondering what protection I have as a
    customer in good standing? Is there anything I can do about this?

    Unfortunately Michael, Chase is somewhat notorious for changing the terms of it’s agreements unexpectedly. Usually in your account holder agreement you can find a line that says something to the effect of
    “We reserve the right to change the terms of this agreement at any time, for any reason.”

    So, even though you’ve been an excellent customer, and done nothing to warrant the change, it’s still legal.

    My best advice is to find another credit card to balance transfer your debt to. Hopefully one with a better interest rate, and lower monthly payments.

    If you’d like to check out some of Chase’s competitor’s offers, you can take a look at our reviews here:

  • Balance Transfer Credit Card Reviews
  • We also had another reader, K, who wrote in with this question:

    My husband requested that I become a authorized user on his account but now after requesting that my name be removed the company is trying to say that becoming a authorized user automatically makes you a joint member. Is that true? They are reporting this on my credit report.

    K,

    The difference between an authorized user and a joint account holder is simple: A joint account holder is responsible for the debt just like the main account holder. An authorized user is not.

    Both authorized users and joint account holders have a record of the account on their credit reports.

    To answer your question, being an authorized user does not usually make you a joint account holder automatically.

    Regardless, if you want to have your name removed from the account, call them back and tell them that you never authorized your name on the account, and you want it removed. Have your husband handy so that he can tell them the same thing. If you are an authorized user and not a joint account holder they will have to speak to him, and not you.

    If the credit account is past due, you may need to make a payment with them in order to have your name removed from the account.

    If the customer service representatives refuse to cooperate with you, ask for a manager. If the manager won’t help you, hang up, and call back a different time to speak with a new manager.

    As long as the account is current (or under a repayment plan) then you should have no problem getting your name removed from the account.

    If the shared account is hurting your credit rating, then get your name removed from it first. Afterwards, follow that up by challenging the account on all three of your credit bureau reports. Do this under the grounds that you never authorized your name to be used on the cards.

    We had one last question from our reader J:

    I have a question for you.

    I had a Capital One card back in 2005 and wasn’t able to pay it on time and it became a charge-off. I ended up paying the debt in full and have since, opened up another account with Capital One and have a card with them in good standing. Is there a way for me to negotiate them into reopening my charged-off account so that I can get that off my credit report?

    I don’t have any other negative information on my credit report besides that one and would like that one negative mark off my credit report.

    Thanks for your question J!

    You may well be able to negotiate with Capital One to re-open your closed account.

    Before you do that though, you could simply try challenging the item on your credit report. This is how the law works: once you challenge an item on your credit reports, Capital One will have 30 days to verify that the debt is legitimate. If they do not verify it, the credit bureaus must remove the item from your credit report completely.

    Since this is an older account there is a good chance that Capital One will not bother to verify it, and your problem will be solved.

    Now, if you do want to re-open the account, simply give them a call and ask them to do it. The worst they can say is no. Since you paid the account in full, and you have another account in good standing, I would say there is a good chance that you can have that old account re-opened.

    If you do get it re-opened, make sure that you check your credit reports a month or two later. That will let you know whether or not the account is still showing up as having been charged off.

    For complete instructions on how to challenge an item on your credit report, you can read this article:

  • How to Dispute An Item On Your Credit Report
  • Have a question for us? Leave a comment below!

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    More On Credit Card Churning

    01/28/2009

    Over at a blog called “The Art fo Nonconformity,” Chris Guillebeau has been chronicling his effort to earn on behalf of his readers 5 Million frequent flier miles. His first goal is to get 300,000 for his own account.

    How Is He Doing It?

    He is basically doing an “app-o-rama”, applying for many cards in a short period of time, similar to what I have been doing. His applications include various cards affiliated with American, Alaskan, Continental, Delta, and Hilton. He is willing to pay application fees and devote some of his spending ot reach the minimum spending requirements of various cards.

    Is It Worth It?

    He is claiming that his mileage will be worth $12,000 to him, an even 4 cents per mile. I am a little suspicious that he is able to get that value from points spread accross so many airlines. You see, one of the foundation principals of extracting value from reward programs is that you must concentrate your points in one or two particular programs, rather then spread them around, like he is. Even still, he may get some decent value from all of his points depending on a few factors.

    Can He Use Them?

    As with most programs, they are more valueble when you live in a city that is home to one of the airline’s hub’s. Having Continental Miles won’t do me much good if I have to fly from Seatle to San Diego via Huston. Furthermore, having 300,000 miles spread accross six programs would be of little help if my goal was to earn reward travel for multiple people traveling together, such as a family vacation.

    More likely is that will try to use 50,000 points here or there for either a couple domestic coach tickets, an international coach ticket, or a domestic first class ticket. In that case, it is very doubtful that he will actually get 4 cents of value per mile, especially with the price of airfares so low these days.

    How Will It Affect His Credit Score?

    He seems to have had approximately the same experience that I had. While I spoke of my credit score being “about where I would expect it for someone who always pays their bills on time”, he speaks of his credit score as falling from the 98th percentile to the 95th percentile. Both of us have considered these temporary losses to be acceptablem, considering the gain.

    Another Travel Guru

    The Frugal Travel Guy is another reward travel guru who’s exploits I take note of. He seems to have the art of churning down to a science. His home page offers this advice:

    #1: Churn Citi AA Credit Cards for 200,000 AA miles per year using no-fee-for-the-first-year cards. Use these four cards for 100,000 AA miles: the Citi® Platinum Select® / AAdvantage® World MasterCard, the Citi Select® / AAdvantage® American Express® card, the CitiBusiness® / AAdvantage® MasterCard, and the CitiBusiness® / AAdvantage® Visa® Card. After 6 months reapply again for the same cards and complete the same spend requirements to receive a second 100,000 AA miles bonus. Most have $250-$750 minimum spend requirements — use them for items would anyway (groceries, gas, etc.),

    This is some serious churning in the traditional sense of the word. Too bad American Airlines Miles are near useless for a Denver resident. Non real non-stop flights to anywhere but Dallas, Chicago, LA or Miami.

    Apparently Citibank offers the true “churn”, a card that you can re-apply for every six months. If you are an American Airlines Frequent Flier, this is probably the deal for you.

    Unauthorized Co-Signers and Repaying Old Debts

    What do you do if you think someone used you as a co-signer without your permission?

    One of our readers, Bob, sent us this question:

    How would I determine if someone used me to co-sign a loan without my knowing?

    Thanks for your question Bob – I hope that hasn’t happened to you!

    There is a very simple way to check and see if someone is signing your name without permission – check all three of your credit reports.

    If you are listed as a co-signer on a loan, it will show up on one (if not all three) of your credit reports. Since co-signers are responsible for the debt just like the primary signer, the loan will show up on your credit reports as well as theirs.

    To check your current credit reports, you can start by visiting Annual Credit Report.com Make sure you do check all three credit reports, Equifax, Experian and TransUnion. Otherwise you may overlook something.

    Not all lenders report to all three credit bureaus. The account you are looking for could show up on one, or all of your credit reports.

    If you check all three credit reports and you do not see a fraudulent account, then you are in the clear.

    If you do find a loan on your credit reports that you did not authorize, make sure you contact not only the lending company, but the credit bureaus as well. That is a case of identity theft, and it should be treated as such. Otherwise, you will be liable for the debt if the other person defaults, and it could ruin your credit.

    If you fear that it’s a family member that has done this to you, you can either speak to them about it, or call the lending company up and tell them what happened. Request to have your name removed from the loan.

    One last caveat, if you think the loan you may have unintentionally co-signed is a new loan, you may have to wait a month before anything shows up on your credit reports. It takes about that long for the credit bureaus to update their files.

    Thanks for your question!






    We had another question from Gemma, about repaying an old debt:

    Hi, i was hoping you may be able to help.

    I had a credit card with nationwide about 9 years ago and started to miss payments. I then had a visit from a man at nationwide and i set up a payment plan to clear down the debt.

    After six months the money stopped coming out of my account even though i still had �1097 outstanding. I tried to call them but they just told me i would be called back but they never did. I have had no further contact with them for about 4 years via email, telephone, letter etc.

    Yesterday i received a letter from them saying that i missed the November 08 payment and December and now i need to pay the rest of the debt off (�1097).

    Can they do this? I haven’t received anything from them – be it statements or letters, and then they just contact me out of the blue years later.

    Thanks for your question Gemma!

    The first thing you will want to do is to go back and check to see who is contacting you. Is it Nationwide that sent you the letter, or have they sold your debt to a collection company?

    The second thing you should do is check your credit reports. If you are in the UK you can visit this link to get your free credit reports.

    The reason you should check your credit reports is to see whether or not they have been reporting this account as delinquent for the last four years. If they have, it is going to be doubly important that you pay the account off.

    Now, since the debt is so old, you do have a couple of options:

  • Consider a debt settlement – Once you are ready to make a payment, call the company that contacted you (either Nationwide, or the company who bought the debt.) Ask them to settle the debt right then and there for a lesser amount. Since this debt is so oldthere is a good chance that you will be able to knock 25% – 40% off of the total amount that you owe.

    Make sure that you get any settlement agreements in writing prior to paying!

  • Set up a payment plan – If you aren’t ready to pay the full amount, or do a settlement, then go ahead and call the company and arrange a payment plan. Stick to the plan, and it won’t hurt your credit score.
  • Once the debt is paid, wait a month or two, and then do a follow-up check on your credit reports. Make sure that the account shows up paid as agreed, not open and past due. That will keep it from hurting your credit score in the future.
  • As far as this being legal, I’m afraid that it is. Even though they clearly dropped the ball, it’s still a legitimate debt.

    It is definitely in your best interest to make payment arrangements of some sort so that it does not harm your credit score, or your ability to get a loan in the future.

    Thanks for your question!

    Have a question for us? Leave a comment below!

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    Credit Card Churning

    01/26/2009

    If you think about reward cards, I am sure it has occurred to you to try to get the “sign up bonus” more than once. Not too far removed from that idea is the thought of applying for several credit cards at once solely in order to receive sign up bonuses. One easy way to do this is to apply for both the personal and business cards, each with a healthy bonus.

    Warning, Proceed With Caution

    Clearly, caution is required, but as your reward card guru, with dreams of international first class travel, I decided to test the waters of this practice, known as churning. Technically, churning refers to opening multiple credit card accounts with the same company for their sign up bonuses. Very closely related to this practice is merely opening up several cards at once to accumulate bonuses.

    The Pitfalls

    There are a lot of problems with this plan, but for some, they are manageable. First, you will always want to protect your credit score, one of your greatest financial assets. Two components of your credit score that are vulnerable to this technique are credit history and credit inquiries. Your credit history is merely the average length of time that companies have extended credit to you. If you have accounts that you have held for years, opening up new ones won’t hurt you that much. Just to be safe, most people recommend keeping a new account for at least a year before canceling it.

    The number of inquiries is another small factor in your credit score. When you apply for a card, the company checks your score and creates an inquiry. In theory, having too many inquiries in a short period of time supposedly identifies you as a greater credit risk, thus temporarily lowering your score.

    Another aspect of your credit score that will actually improve when you churn cards is your credit utilization. The more credit you have available, the better. Therefore, having more cards will actually help your score somewhat.

    The next pitfall is the credit card companies themselves. Most do not allow churning, although there are some notable exceptions. To find out which companies currently allow churning, check out the credit card forums over at Flyertalk. In my experience, even the companies that forbid churning only do so for a limited time. I have gotten bonuses for various airline cards multiple times, but only after having canceled several years earlier, even though their rules expressly forbid receiving bonuses multiple times.

    One of the problems I faced recently, was the dreaded “financial review” from American Express, after I applied for and received several of their cards in a short period of time. I passed their “review” but it was frustrating and time consuming.

    Finally, a real concern is organizing all of this info. To do it right, you need to track which cards you apply for, which you received, and what bonuses you are entitled to. Most importantly, you will get a lot more bills in the mail that need to be paid on time and in full.

    My Experience

    While technically not “churning”, I applied for many Delta and Starwood American Express personal and business cards last year, with the hopes of taking advantage of the Big Delta Promo that returns a %150 bonus on top of all miles earned. While Delta later claimed the promo was a mistake, they decided to honor it for people like me and my wife who signed up while the web site was live. In the course of a few weeks, we earned over a hundred thousand Delta SkyMiles from sign up bonuses and by transferring StarPoints to SkyMiles. This should translate to several hundred thousand miles, enough for our family to fly across the world later this year. Keep in mind that my wife and I had zero SkyMiles on November 1st, and you will understand why I was willing to take some risk for $10,000 worth of tickets.

    Did It Damage My Credit?

    To my relief, my credit score remained very high when I checked it recently. I did not look at it every day, so I can’t really say if it underwent a minor dip after I received all of the cards. Suffice it to say, that my score remains where one should expect it to be for someone who pays all of his bills on time and in full.

    Lessons Learned

    First, only undertake this if you are highly organized. It is all too easy to mix up bills, in fact I actually ended up slightly underpaying some $10.00 bill by a couple dollars, incurring a few cents worth of interest.

    Second, make sure that the reward is worth the risk. Usually, getting a sign up bonus is a great way to “top off” an account that is near a large reward.

    Finally, don’t immediate jump on all offers you see. If my wife and I had taken advantage of all of the Delta rewards a few years ago, we would have been ineligible to get them and the big bonus now. Likewise, my parents have chosen not to sign up for some of the higher end Delta cards that offer base miles, holding out for a year in which they come up short of the qualifying miles needed to retain their status.

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