Editor's ChoiceCategories Credit Type Issuers Blog

United Airlines Reward Cards, Time To Eject?

11/17/2008

When other frequent travelers hear that I live in Denver, they presume I must be a frequent traveler with United. The truth is that I once was, but I no longer am. It was both their reputation for poor service, as well as my personal experiences that caused me to swear off the airline and their frequent flier program.

Their Latest Offer, 40,000 Miles

Now, United has been offering 30,000 miles or even 40,000 miles as a sign up bonus for it’s rewards card. It appears that the 40,000 miles card is a targeted offer. You get 20,000 as a sign up bonus when you spend $750 dollars, and another 20,000 on your first anniversary. The annual fee of $60 is waived your first year.

Will United Last Another Year?

Mark Ashley, over at the Upgrade Travel Better blog, mentioned back in September that United has purchased oil futures, known as hedging, when oil was at it’s highest point. His conclusion is that United has been raising fees as oil prices have been plummeting in order to cover up it’s bad bets on the market and shift its losses to its customers. Now, travel expert Peter Greenberg suggests that United is loosing money so quickly, it might not last much longer.

Ashley agrees, and suggests it is time to get rid of empty your MileagePlus account immediately. His suggestion is to book reward travel on United’s partners, who would almost certainly honor reservations that have already been ticketed.

Even If They Survive, Is It Worth It?

Their program is being seriously devalued at the start of next year, with fees and “award co-pays” rising almost as fast as I can write about them. Here is an article in the Consumerist about a lifelong fan of the once great airline. He documents his struggle to use an award ticket. Ultimately, the fees charged exceeded the value of the “award,” and he, like myself, has committed to never flying them again.

If you are unlucky enough to fly with them, here you can expect flight attendants who rudely refuse to assist passengers or worse. In my final experience flying on United, my wife and I were lied to repeatedly and treated like second class passengers because we were traveling on award tickets. It was an eternal struggle just to get them to seat my wife and I together, and this was the service we received from their international business class!

My Latest Attempt To Use My Remaining Miles Fails

With 14,000 miles left in my account, I attempted to find an award, any award that can be redeemed for some value. The best award I could find, was a two day free car rental at National. I found this award page that showed four different rental companies that I could redeem an award for. I first made my reservation at National, but there was no award code listed on the web page. I wanted the code for the reservation before I confirmed the award, as all rentals aren’t eligible, and United’s web page makes clear that once the award is redeemed, it cannot be returned.

I called United and was eventually given some code that the people at National had never heard of. By the way, I love calling United. First the automated system asks you for you MileagePlus number, then you speak with a person. The first thing the person always asks for is, surprise, your MileagePlus number! I always tell them that the number is the same one I just entered, but they persist.

I called United back again, explained the situation, and was given a completely different explanation. They told me that the award is redeemed after the rental and then a refund is given. Finally, I decided to just redeem the award and try get rid of my miles while I still could. Only then was I informed that this offer was only available to elite members, something that their “customer service” people wouldn’t tell me no matter how many times I gave them my non-elite MileagePlus number.

Conclusions

There are many reward travel cards offered by many airlines. When choosing a card, you are making an investment in both the continued survival of the airline, as well as in the value of the award you hope to receive. When the airlines service is so remarkably poor, and their survival is in doubt, it is time to cash in your miles and find a new reward card.

Editor’s Note: – Even if you fly United, you can still earn frequent flier miles that are part of the Star Alliance program. For this reason, (if you fly United), you would inevitably better off getting a card like the Starwood Preferred Guest or allows you to transfer miles one on one for most airlines to other Star Alliance Partners.

Negotiating With Your Creditors When You’re Past Due

We had two questions from readers who wondered if it was better to go past due with your creditors so that you can negotiate with them.

This is a valid strategy, but it does have some problems. Let’s take a look at the individual situations.

Preston asked us:

I was doing pretty well with real estate until the slowdown hit, then I got stuck with some large payments that made it impossible to keep up. Selling the real estate was impossible and for the past couple of years I used credit cards and robbed Peter to pay Paul.

Rather than go through foreclosure I gave my property to the bank via deed in lieu of foreclosure. My credit scores have already nosedived to 546. My credit card balance is around 60k and all of them are current. The rates range from 9.9% to 28.49%.

Your blog has been very informative and based on what I have read it looks like I should be negotiating hard with my credit card companies. And if I understand some of your advice, I should even consider not making payments to make the negotiation easier. And since my credit scores have already dropped I wouldn’t be hurting myself by doing this. Am I correct in my observations? Thanks.

Thanks for your question Preston. Yes you definitely want to be negotiating with your credit card companies. Normally I would suggest that you try to balance transfer your high interest credit cards to cards with a better rate. But since your credit score has dropped, you may not be able to get approved. That means that you are going to have to go in swinging with your credit card companies, and negotiate some of these interest rates and fee removals.

In your specific situation, you do not want to go past due on your bills – yet. Start by calling your credit card companies and asking them to lower your interest rates instead. Usually, it is easier to get your interest rates reduced if you are not delinquent. You will definitely have to speak with a manager, or possibly even two. The general customer service people you will reach are probably not going to be able to help you.

Just be firm with them. Keep reiterating what a great customer you’ve been, how much you like their services, but that you cannot accept the current interest rates on your card. I would go ahead and tell them you intend to balance transfer (even if you can’t). They won’t know the difference, and it’s a good bargaining point.

Make sure you ask to have any and all fees removed or waived from the card. Do not threaten to close the account, just keep repeating that you need them to help you change the terms.

This is the best case scenario. If you are polite, and persistent, you should be able to get your interest rates reduced. If you call and the rep on the other end is rude, or unwilling to help you, just hang up and call back. Someone there will be able to help you.

Now, worst case scenario here, let’s look at the other part of your question.

And if I understand some of your advice, I should even consider not making payments to make the negotiation easier. And since my credit scores have already dropped I wouldn’t be hurting myself by doing this. Am I correct in my observations?

Going past due at any point will lower your credit score. BUT it will be easier to negotiate things like lump sum settlements, and fee removals. In my experience, it is harder to get interest rates lowered with a record of late payments.

Now, if you do choose to go past due on a couple of your cards so that you can work with the collections department (who have a lot more leeway to help you than customer service does) make sure you do one thing:

You will want to negotiate for them not to report you as late, or to change the information on your credit report. Some companies will do this, some will not. But you can certainly go past due, negotiate to have fees removed, and then negotiate for them to remove the “late” mark on your credit report. Get it in writing though, or its as good as fiction.

Jenna just reviewed an excellent book on this topic – The Guerrilla Guide To Credit Repair. It explains these procedures in a lot of detail. If you do plan to go past due to negotiate, it would be worth it to pick that book up and use the negotiation tactics and sample letters in it.

You can also go past due, get your fees removed, and then challenge the late payment if it shows up on your credit report. So you have a lot of options at this point.

Try negotiating with your credit card companies before you pay late though, there’s no point in putting additional black marks on your credit report if you don’t absolutely have to.

Another reader, Jessica, had this question about past due payments and negotiation:

Filed bankruptcy chapter 7 and it has been discharged. I have a credit account that existed before the filing but was not included because it had a zero balance. Since then, I incurred a balance on it that I have not been able to pay it off. Would it be better to call the creditor and make small payments on it or let it go to collection and work out a partial lump sum payment with the collection agency? If I let it go to collection will my credit suffer even more?

Jessica,

It will always be better to deal with the credit card company rather than a collections company. There are several reasons for this:

  1. You can negotiate with the credit card company to change what they have already reported and clean up the past due marks on your credit report. A collections company will not be able to do that.
  2. If the credit card company sells your debt it will show up on your credit report as “charged off” which looks really bad. Charged off after a bankruptcy looks worse.
  3. When the credit card company sells your debt to a collection agency, it will open up a new past due account on your credit report, so it’s like getting burned twice for the same account.

Definitely call and make payment arrangements with your credit card company. You can even offer to make a lump sum settlement with them – you don’t have to wait for the debt to be sold. Check out the articles below – they’ll give you more information on how to negotiate with your credit card company.

Thanks for your question!

Have a question for us? Leave a comment below!

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The Guerrilla Guide To Credit Repair

11/16/2008

The Guerrilla Guide to Credit Repair is a short, sweet little book on seizing control of your own credit report.

It lives up to it’s name too – It includes numerous sample letters, tactics, and spot-on advice about credit reports, credit scores, and removing negative information.

The first section of the book gives specific examples of what your credit report will look like, and how to decipher the “code” it contains. It’s a large section too – the authors really covered all the bases. Sample reports from all three major credit bureaus are featured, and each one has an explanation and breakdown by company.

I’ve read several books on credit repair, and this is the first book Ive seen that actually did a good job of explaining all three credit reports in an easy to understand way. You can look at the sample, look at your own credit report, and read the author’s notations.

The second section of the book covers repairing your credit. Basic and advanced tactics are listed.

Basic credit repair tactics:

Playing Hardball: Advanced Credit Repair Tactics

This section is dedicated to helping you negotiate with the credit bureaus and your creditors.

Know your enemy:

Sometimes you have to take the incorrect information up with the people who put it there in the first place. The Guerrilla Guide to Credit Repair gives specific negotiation plans for all of the following:

The last section of the book contains complete copies of the Fair Debt Collection Practices Act and the Fair Credit Reporting Act.

These two pieces of legislation are boring, but necessary since they are the laws that protect you and your credit history. They govern what the lenders, collections agencies, and credit bureaus can and cannot do.

The good news is, there’s really no reason to have to sit and read either of these acts if you don’t want to. The necessary references have already been included in the sample letters when and where they were needed. So, having this book is like having 50 percent of the work already completed for you.

The Guerrilla Guide to Credit Repair gives you the step by step plans you need, all the tools to make the plans work, and makes it easy enough that cleaning up your credit report should never stress you to death.

I really was amazed by this little book, and I don’t say that lightly. If you have derogatory information on your credit report, and you want THE resource that will tell you how to remove it, yes. This book is the one you want.

There is only one problem with the book, and it’s not the fault of the book itself. I believe that some of the contact information for the three credit bureaus is out of date. Since the three bureaus regularly change their contact information (phone, address, P.O. Boxes, etc.) it’s impossible for any single edition of a book to remain correct for very long.

So, if you do this book, or check it out from the library, follow the action plans exactly. Just make sure you jump online and double check the addresses before you send any correspondence off.

To sum up the Guerrilla Guide to Credit Repair in a single sentence: Having a well thought out plan of attack, with specific instructions is priceless.

I highly recommend this book to anyone who has mistakes or bad information in their credit report. I cannot say enough good about it. If you take action using the plans in this book, and you are persistent about it, I believe you could have most anything removed from your credit report. Definitely do not waste hundreds of dollars paying someone else to clean up your credit report for you. The Guerrilla Guide to Credit Repair lays everything out so simply that it’s easy to get the results you need for the cost of the book and a few certified / registered letters.

Have a question for us? Leave a comment below!

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Tips Fees and Saving Money – It’s the Little Things

11/15/2008

This post was inspired by an article at Gather Little by Little. The article was titled “Is tipping getting out of hand?” It really got me thinking about all of the little expenses, the ones that add up to become a big expense by the end of the month.

I’ve always tried my very best to be a generous tipper. I worked as a waitress for a while, and I have never forgotten what it felt like to be paid next to nothing, work hard, and then occasionally not be tipped at all.

Gather Little by Little didn’t take issue with waiters and waitresses though, but they did point out that today we are expected to tip for our lattes, our pizzas (after they tack on a “delivery fee”), our hair cuts…the list goes on and on.

It’s not just the tips that make a dent in our wallets either. Sometimes it’s the fees. Broke Grad Student got a $250 parking ticket this week because he parked in a red bus zone. Ouch…

There are tons of other little places where money runs out too. That unexpected school field trip, organization dues and membership fees….some months it is easy to feel like you are being nickel and dimed to death.

So I was thinking. How do I fight all of these little expenses that are just a part of my life? Many of my incidentals are things that I can’t cut out, or don’t want to cut out. But I still want to even the score a little bit.

I use YNAB (You Need A Budget) software. It lets me itemize everything. So I do set aside a specific amount for these types of expenses. Given the rising cost of food, and pretty much everything else though, I think I am going to start cutting those small expenses down a bit. I think it’s a good time to kick my frugal nature into high gear.

Just the basic frugality stuff. I’m not quite into washing my baggies and plastic wrap, or saving my tea bags yet. (Though I did find some killer re-usable tea bags for next to nothing, so I may actually do that one!).

So I was wondering…what are your frugality tips? How do you cut down on those little expenses? Give me your best tip below! I’ll work it up into an article, and include a link to your site.

I did find some excellent articles in my feed reader this week, and many of them had some great tips for living on less.

Saving Money:

Planning for the Holidays:

Carnivals:

Have a question for us? Leave a comment below!

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Reward Cards and Your Financial Lifestyle, Part Three

11/14/2008

Rule Five: Reduce or Eliminate All Recurring Monthly Costs

All the time I am offered all sorts of free stuff. Usually, I am asked to sign up for some “benefit” that incurs a fixed monthly charge to my credit card. This could be anything from a 53 cents per month “payment protection”, to a $12.99 “credit monitoring service”. I always refuse.

The quickest way to loose control of your finances, is to give someone permission to automatically charge you every month. Beyond, automatic charges, there are a myriad of other monthly expenses that really add up. Earlier this year, my wife and I made the painful decision to cancel our cable TV. We were paying about $50 a month for HBO and expanded basic in High Definition. We did the math and concluded that we were giving $600 a year to the local cable monopoly, and that we would save little, if anything, from switching to a dish. That $600 a year was really something like $900 a year in pre-tax earnings. By canceling cable, it was like my boss calling me into his office an offering me a $900 a year raise for dropping cable; we just couldn’t turn that down. Even though we are not struggling financially, I know that that money adds up. We could have spent thousands of dollars on television over the next ten years, and we just knew that we could find a better use for our entertainment dollar. Now, we order movies and TV series on NetFlix or watch free digital broadcast television in high definition, and our picture couldn’t be better.

I am constantly trying to trim our necessary monthly expenditures, such as energy, phones, and Internet service. I even purchased a used cable modem on Ebay for $10 to avoid paying the $3 a month “modem rental fee”.

I know that when times are tough, I will always have fewer bills to pay, and a larger cushion ensuring our family’s financial security.

How The Rules Work Together

By now, you have probably noticed that my rules overlap quite substantially. Not ing anything (other than appreciating assets) that you cannot pay for now, Rule One, implies that you can’t get a car loan, part of Rule Two. Not having a car loan payment every month, helps tremendously with Rule Three, being conservative, and Rule Five, reducing recurring monthly expenses. Rule Four, being organized relates to all of the other rules and so on.

These rules interact by design. They are a part of a philosophy that eliminates all interest payments on non-appreciating assets, reduces recurring monthly payments, and ensuring financial stability and flexibility.

Aren’t You Just Taking An Oath Of Poverty?

On the contrary, I love to splurge on stuff. I travel frequently, eat out often, and own lots of electronic gizmos. I don’t consider myself wealthy, I just have more money left over when I don’t have perpetual obligations such as car payments, credit card payments, or cable bills. Other than mortgage and school loans, both tax deductible, we always pay zero a month in interest. I drive a ten year old car, but it is a 1999 Mazda Miata with 30,000 miles on it that is fun, reliable, and gets great mileage. Our other car is a 2005 Subaru wagon rather than a new Volvo or Audi. Obviously, much of my travel is with awards gained through reward cards and other loyalty programs. It is rare that I go out to a restaurant without a coupon from the Entertainment book or Restaurant.com. I legally rent DVDs for free at the library or at the Redbox using promo codes.

How Did You Come Up With This Stuff

It is not like I sat down one day and figured all this stuff out, and only then tried to live the Rules. The true story is that this is what I was brought up to practice, and it is only recently that I have thought about it, and tried to make some sense out of it. Until now, the “Rules” have not existed in any written form, they were essentially an oral tradition in my family.

Exceptions

I have been very fortunate to have been raised with these traditions, and thankfully, I have not experienced any tradgedies or other circumstances that have devestated me financially. I know that not everyone has it so easy. I freely admit that I would max out my credit card and declare bankruptcy in a moment if someone I love required an medical procedure to save their life, and insurance wouldn’t cover it. I know that families have children with special needs, and wage earners that are unable to find a job. These are the rules I try to live by and they have served me well, but I still make mistakes. I welcome your comments, concerns, additions, and revisions.

What rules do you live by? What works for you?

Saving for Your Child’s Education with UPromise

About a month ago, I decided to give UPromise a go. My daughter’s young, (she’ll be two in December) so we have a while to save for her college fund.

We’ve already started a Coverdell account for her, to take care of her early school years because we want to put her in a private school. I hadn’t actually started her an official college account though. So when I ran across UPromise, I thought I would check it out, and see what it was all about.

I thought it might be fun to do a review-in-pictures, so I included some screen shots below!


This is the UPromise main page – where you’ll end up if you want to check the program out a bit. I started my account with them in September, because I got a five dollar sign on bonus. I haven’t really been actively trying to accumulate money in the account, I just set it up, and gave it a couple of months to do it’s thing.


So far, I have $8.64 in the account. Not counting the $5.00 sign on bonus, it means that I’ve earned $3.64 towards my daughter’s college fund. Certainly not earth shattering! But, considering all that I did was to list my Kroger card number with UPromise, and make my regular purchases, I don’t think that’s too shabby.

If I earn a dollar a month, for the next 16 years (assuming I do nothing differently than I am now) that’s $192.00. I am assuming that *might* a textbook in 2024. Maybe. An undergrad textbook.

So, clearly, this is nice, but if that were all the program offered, I probably wouldn’t waste my time.

One thing that does help though, is that you have the ability to invite friends and family members to join you on UPromise. And they don’t spam them to death either – as far as I can tell. At least, no one has complained to me about it yet.

So, you get your family in on the deal, and they allocate their rewards to your child. This is great for me, since my dad is big into EBay (We will get 1% of all his purchases) and my mom shops online (1-10% back depending on where she shops). If we all throw our Kroger cards in there, I can see how the savings could build up a bit over time. And hey, it’s free money. The only work I had to do was sign up and list my Kroger card.

As I said though, this isn’t the biggest benefit of UPromise in my opinion. Free money is good, but this is better:


What sold me, lock, stock, and barrel was that little logo at the bottom – UPromise has partnered with Vanguard to offer low cost 529 plans.

Here’s a few more details:


So. That’s a pretty sweet deal considering the last time I browsed around Vanguard’s website, their 529 requirements looked like this:


So, frankly, I don’t have $3,000 to cough up all at once to start my daughter’s college account. I wish I did, but I don’t. But if I go through UPromise, I start the account with $200, and contribute a regular $50 a month. Then, anytime my UPromise account hits $25 or more, they will roll it on over into the 529 account for me. Easy Peasy.

UPromise has also partnered with Citi to offer a rewards credit card. It has decent terms, and the rewards go into your UPromise account:


Basically you can earn 10% back when you shop through their approved retailers, and 1% back everywhere else.

As far as their “approved retailers” go, it really is a large list. There are more than 600 stores and travel sites to choose from. Here’s a few to give you an idea:

Honestly though, this is not the type of credit card you want to carry a balance on. Just like any cash back credit card, if you carry a balance from month to month the interest that you pay will completely negate any benefits you get from using the card.

If you normally carry a balance on your cards, you’d probably be better off just chucking an additional $10 or $20 into the college account itself, rather than paying interest to Citi just to get a few dollars in rewards.

All in all though, I’m thrilled. I have to admit, I think this is going to be a valuable program. I do have one BIG gripe though, and thankfully, it is an optional feature.

UPromise has a tool bar that you can download. When you jump online, you log in, and it will show your current savings. What it also does though, is to automatically use the UPromise affiliate link when you visit one of the 600 partner sites. That way you can be sure that you will get your rewards back when you shop there.

The only problem is, I’m one of those people who likes to browse. So, if I get an email from Amazon, and I click on the link, I get redirected through UPromise temporarily. My gripe here is, when the toolbar is active it sends me through UPromise, and then redirects me to the front page of the partner site – not to the page I was trying to visit. In other words, I’ll click a link for a sweater, and end up on Amazon’s front page instead.

Well, after about a month of that, I uninstalled the little bugger, and put a few expletives in the comments section of the uninstall. Hopefully Upromise will fix that feature as soon as possible.

So, that’s my only warning. If you browse a lot, do NOT install the toolbar. Just visit UPromise any time you actually expect to something online. They have so many affiliate sites that chances are, you’ll find what you need at one of them, and be able to get some money back on your purchase for your child’s education.

So, I guess my next question would be, why in the world can’t we do this with our retirement accounts? 🙂

Have a question for us? Leave a comment below!

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Reward Cards And Your Financial Lifestyle, Part Two

11/13/2008

Yesterday, I wrote about how reward cards are just one part of an overall financial lifestyle that allows you to profitably seek rewards. Today, I will continue to explain how this philosophy works for me.

Rule Three: Be Conservative

I am not talking about politics, I am talking about how you make large financial decisions. I remember the first time I purchased a house. I had just gotten my first job after college, and I was ready to move out of my parents house (my parents were very ready). When I spoke with a mortgage broker, they explained that I could borrow up to the extent that my monthly payments would equal one third of my monthly pre-tax income. I did the numbers and was shocked.

If I earned, for example, $36,000 a year, or $3,000 a month, that would mean that I could get a loan with monthly payments of $1,000 a month. Federal, State, and Local taxes would eat up about a third of my paycheck as deductions, so then, I would really be paying half of my take home salary as a mortgage payment. Then, you have to figure in heat, air conditioning, electric, water, sewer, trash, phone, and insurance. That would have easily added up to a substantial fraction of the remaining $1,000 a month. Finally, I figured a house required repair and upkeep that would be paid by management if I lived in an apartment. Lawns needed to be mowed, plumbing would have to be fixed, and appliances would spontaneously break down.

Had I borrowed the maximum amount, I would of had to live off of a few hundred dollars a month for food, gas, clothes, and entertainment, let alone savings. I would be living paycheck to paycheck. It would have been a recipe for default, foreclosure, and bankruptcy.

In the end, I chose a property well below what I could have gotten a loan for, and I got a roommate to help pay the mortgage. Not only was I easily able to make my mortgage, but my roommate became my best friend, and I had the money to replace the air conditioner when it failed during a heat wave.

When I make a large financial decision, I always choose the more cautious option. You never know when you might be laid off of your job, or come down with an illness that is not properly covered by your health insurance. These things happen, and being able to cut back when times are tough is often the difference between making your mortgage and loosing your home or worse.

Rule Four: Be Organized

I have written before about organizing your personal finances. If you have not read it, I encourage you to do so. While the methods I outlined are great ways to ensure your bills are paid on time, it is more of a financial tactic than a strategy. The overall strategy for keeping your finances organized is at least as important as the way you do so. Pay off all of your high interest debt before your low interest debt. This practice is well known to people who carry a balance on their credit cards, but is also useful to people who have other outstanding loans such as car, home, and school loans.

President Elect Barack Obama remarked during the campaign that he only paid off his school loans a few years ago. That would be a smart strategy, even though he could have paid them off earlier. Subsidized education loans are typically at lower interest rates than home loans. If he has a home loan, he is better off paying the royalties from his books towards his mortgage than his school loans.

The other way to be organized is to maximize your return on cost saving efforts. This blog is devoted to saving money with your credit cards, and I provide tips daily on maximizing your reward card returns. Some people clip coupons for 10 cents off of this or that, but I prefer to find two for one dinner specials that save me $15 when my wife and I eat out. It is not about being frugal, after all, we are still eating out. It is about realizing that we don’t have the time to find every coupon out there, and we will only focus our energy on finding the largest discounts.

What To Expect Tomorrow

Tomorrow, I will conclude with Rule Five, but also share some notable exceptions to the rule. Until then I welcome your comments, concerns, additions, and revisions.

Hope for Homeowners?

One of our regular readers, Matt, left this comment:

I’m curious if either of you saw the news release today where the federal government, Citigroup, Fannie & Freddie, and possibly a few other mortgage lenders are willing to negotiate with homeowners to restructure their current mortgage to prevent foreclosure.

We hadn’t really talked about the new “Hope Now” program that our government is rolling out, and I’d love to have your opinion on it!

Here’s the skinny:

  1. The goal is to put delinquent homeowners into new, “Long term sustainable mortgages” that they can actually afford.
  2. It will go into effect December 15th, 2008
  3. In order to qualify borrowers have to be at lest three months behind on their mortgages and still owe more than 90% of the total value of the mortgage itself.
  4. For borrowers who qualify, it will reduce your housing expenses to the point that it will not take up more than 38% of your total income.
  5. You could also have the option to extend your mortgage from a 30 year loan to a 40 year loan and make some of the principle mount owed interest free instead.
  6. *facts from MSN money’s article “US Expands Program to Modify Troubled Mortgages“.

I would really love to know what you guys think about this plan? Is it a good one? It is undoubtedly helping the people who need it most (those going into foreclosure).

Here’s the rub, (for me at least). My husband and I are three years our of bankruptcy. We have been diligently working to recover our credit, and save enough for a reasonable down payment on a house. Before all of this mess started we considered getting a home, but we did not want to get locked into an adjustable rate mortgage – we were afraid of what would happen if our interest rates shot up and we couldn’t make our payments. So we rent….and we rent…and now thanks to the credit crunch, we will likely be renting for several years more.

So, it’s a little hard for me to watch our government bail out all of these people when we chose to be responsible, and avoid a mortgage we couldn’t afford. They get to keep their homes, while we will have to continue renting.

Is that jealousy? I’m sure that it must be. We went bankrupt. We’ve already played our bailout card, thank you very much. And, after all, we chose not to get into a mortgage before this mess, so why cry that we don’t have one now? In my heart I am very glad that people…families….will have an easier time of things. It’s not in me to want to see children put out into the streets because their parents made bad choices.

I just have to wonder…how far will these handouts go? Now I am hearing talk of the government bailing out the large auto manufacturers. Those companies have been in trouble for years. Yet right now everyone has their hand out, so why shouldn’t they do it too? After all…they do provide a lot of jobs here in America.

Has America truly become a welfare nation? Why are we turning to Uncle Sam to fix this problem? What happened to American ingenuity? What happened to the force and the spirit that our immigrant ancestors built this country on? Have we lost the American Dream because we felt like it was a God-given right instead of something to be sacrificed for?

What do you think?

Keep Reading:

Reward Cards And Your Financial Lifestyle

11/12/2008

It has been said (by me), that credit cards are like fire, they can be powerful tools or an incredible danger, depending how they are used. My specialty, reward cards, is a very powerful tool, but there is a bigger picture out there that needs to be addressed.

Credit Cards Are Just One Aspect Of Your Financial Lifestyle

Attempting to gain rewards from your credit cards is really part of a larger philosophy of personal finance that allows me to hunt for rewards in my spare time. I am lucky that I have been brought up to practice several healthy fundamental financial strategies. I would like to share these with you, not because I think I am perfect, but in the hope that it will provoke some thought and discussion on your personal finance practices, and how to improve them.

Rule One: Never Charge Anything To A Credit Card That You Cannot Pay For Now

This would seem to be the opposite of “credit”. I was brought up to treat all credit cards more like charge cards, like the original American Express card. My first credit card in my wallet was in my parents name, and I was only to use it on their permission. If I wanted to purchase something for myself out of my allowance or savings, I had to reimburse my parents when the bill was due. Paying the minimum balance was not an option. As I grew older, and was earning money for myself, I kept this practice. To this day, credit cards are merely a method of payment for me, not a loan.

Rule Two: Only Borrow Money For Appreciating Assets

Would it surprise you to know that I am currently hundreds of thousands of dollars in debt? That is what my mortgage statement on my house tells me each month Obviously, credit is a valuable tool, but only when it is leveraged in your favor. While the recent housing crisis has shown that real estate does not always increase in value, I would have to argue that this phenomenon is the exception that proves the rule. Owning an appreciating property, especially as your primary residence, is one of the few reasons to borrow money and pay interest. When your house is your primary residence, you get a generous tax advantage that ensures this is a great investment. The only other time I have ever borrowed money was for education. A degree is another appreciating asset, and school loans often come with heavily subsidized interest rates and payment terms.

The Implication Of Rule Two: No Car Loans

I once heard Bill Clinton remark that his mother was so frugal, that she would only used cars that she could pay for in cash. That remarked surprised me as I do not consider myself to be especially frugal, yet most people are stunned to find out that I do not have a car payment.

Taking out a car loan would be a gross violation of Rule Two. Everybody knows that a new car depreciates dramatically the moment it is driven of the lot. With the exception of a few rare classics, all cars loose value every day. Borrowing money to pay for a car is just not making your money work for you. When you purchase the car, you are paying a fixed monthly rate on it. As time goes by, the car will be worth a fraction of what it was when you bought it, yet your payment stays the same.

Almost all of us still require a car to get around, and the answer is similar to Rule One, always a car you can pay for immediately. If you are ing your first car, choose an older, used car. If you are currently in a car loan, pay it off and continue driving the car until you have saved up enough to upgrade it. While my first few cars were used, they were low mileage when I bought them, and very reliable. Ultimately, I was able to afford a new car in 2002, yet last year, I sold it and bought a used 2005 version of the same car. I applaud Jenna for her decision to choose used car over a new car, and to pay cash instead of taking a loan.

More Rules Tomorrow

I know this is a lot of info. I swear I am not trying to be preachy, or hold myself up as a perfect example. I frequently mention that reward cards are only for people who pay off their balances in full, and I honestly hope that some of these suggestions will help bring more people into this category. By doing so, you will also become more financially secure, which is a far greater reward than mere frequent flier miles.

Home Owners Association Fees and Bankruptcy

One of our readers, Chris, had this question for us:

We are having the house discharged in a bankruptcy. Once the debt of the mortgage is discharged who is responsible for the HOA and COA fees? Is it the bank (Trustee) or us?

Thank you for your time,
Chris

Hey Chris, thanks for your question. Laws vary by state, so this is a question you definitely need to ask your bankruptcy lawyer. However, a general rule of thumb is this:

Any fees you owed prior to the date you filed for bankruptcy will be discharged along with your bankruptcy. Any fees charged to you after the date you filed bankruptcy do not get included in your bankruptcy debt.

Please note that this is the date of filing your bankruptcy, not the date of your discharge. So if the fees were tacked on after you filed for bankruptcy, you do owe them.

Thanks for your question, and best of luck in your proceedings.





We also had another reader, Freddie, who asked this question:

I just got my discharge papers and want to get a car at CARMAX, How long should I wait after bankruptcy to apply for a car loan?

Thanks for your question Freddie. You can apply for a car loan at any time as long as your bankruptcy has been discharged. You do not have to wait if you can find a company willing to work with you.

If you do get financed at CARMAX, will you drop us an email or leave us a comment and tell us about the experience?

Thanks again for your question!

Have a question for us? Leave a comment below!

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